Cairngorms 2014

So far we have spent 2 days out in the hills making the most of all the snow that has dumped the Cairngorms this season.

Day 1 (Monday) we spent the day fairly close to the ski centre. We ascended the Fiacaill a Choire Chais ridge and headed to the summit of Cairngorm. A first Munro for many of the group. After bagging the summit we headed down towards marquis' well where we had a quick lunch stop and made a small snow-hole. After this we headed for Ptarmigan restaurant and descended the path towards the ski centre car park.

Myself, Sam and Andy on the descent from Cairngorm. Fiacaill ridge in the background...

Day 2 (Tuesday) the weather was a bit more hardcore. On the way to the sugar bowl car park we had a half hour wait due to the road being closed as the snow fall in the morning was heavy. Once we finally arrived we instantly set off and headed for the Chalamain gap. Walking through the gap we had some severe wind, we even had to stop and get the goggles on. Once through the gap we played about on some slopes practicing our ice axe arrests. Once we had done this we had a quick look at through the Lairig Ghru before turning back. The walk back through the Chalamain Gap was a bit friendlier with very little wind. A quick stroll and we were back in the car park. 

Ben in the Chalamain gap...

Hopefully the weather is a bit friendlier tomorrow so we can enjoy another day out in the hills...

Foundation Coach Training

Now that we are in the new year I now have time to finally follow up from my last blog post.

 

Towards the end of December I managed to run many coaching sessions at work. This was very beneficial to my junior clubs as I can see a steady progression in their personal development.

 Now that I have done a large amount of indoor climbing coaching I decided that it was time to attend a climbing coach training. Luckily for myself there was one running at Plymouth High Sports. The individual running the training course was Paul Smith. A renowned climbing coach and author of some very popular climbing books.

The training lasted a full day and covered a wide range of coaching topics such as learning styles, methods of coaching delivery, stages of motor learning and skill acquisition.



Holistic Observation...



The coaching award scheme is a new coaching concept and award delivered by approved mountain training providers. It is a worthwhile award for coaches who would like to develop their own coaching ability and to also give aspirant coaches an underlying knowledge of the key concepts of coaching.

Paul Smith is a coach and provider whom I would highly recommend. He can be contacted through his website at Rock and Water Adventures.

Paul smith is the author of both 'Climbing Games' and 'Top Tips for Climbing Coaches'.

Smith, P. (2009) Climbing Games. Caernarfon: Pesda Press.

Smith, P. (2009) Top Tips for Climbing Coaches. Caernarfon: Pesda Press.
 

Various...

Well another long period of time has passed (yet again) since my last blog update..! So its about time I wrote up a new one!

Well since my last blog I have been continuing my work at Plymouth High Sports as a climbing coach and a climbing instructor. I have had the pleasure of coaching the same group of individuals for the past 2 terms every Saturday and Sunday morning allowing me to focus on development and progression. The sessions thus far have consisted of techniques such as edging, bridging, hand and foot matching, hand and foot swapping, rockovers etc. Alongside the techniques I have coached have been workshops on the importance of agility, balance, co-ordination and weight transfer. I have now been signed up to coach the same 2 groups next term which I am looking forward to.

Alongside work and University I have had the pleasure of attending 2 mountaineering lectures by Andy Kirkpatrick and Doug Scott, respectively.
Andy Kirkpatrick's lecture focused very much on inappropriate climbing such as when death is very potential and Doug Scott's lecture focused on the positive times spent adventuring in far afield mountain regions.
Two quality lectures in their own right.

Now back to university... The modules we are covering this year are extremely beneficial to my coaching career; Biomechanics, sports nutrition and skill acquisition. These modules contain ideal theoretical principles which can be applied to practical sessions in a wide range of subjects. I have also had the pleasure of coaching groups of peers in open canoe on both the river and open water during my practical sessions which is helping me fill in my logbook towards boating qualifications.

Busy, Busy, busy...

Next bog update should not be too far away as I have recently attended a Foundation Coach Training course... Watch this space...

High Sports...

So another long period of time has went by without the blog being written up. Sigh...

Well long story short I have moved from Torbay to Plymouth and have now started a new job as a climbing instructor at the climbing wall in Plymouth. I have been in this position for roughly 6 weeks now and I am enjoying the job. I have so far worked with many school groups, parties, taster sessions, private instruction, junior clubs and adult beginners.

Along with working at the climbing wall I have managed to fit in several sessions per week in the bouldering room. During these sessions I have been working on both power and strength endurance and I am gradually pushing through the bouldering grades. 

Bouldering room in Plymouth...

Well another short blog as I am extremely busy with work, being a father and fitting time in to go climbing. See you soon...

Cornish Granite...

Friday just passed (July 26th) I managed to get out with good friend Will and get a few of Devon's classic multi pitch routes in the bag. As Will is due do leave at the end of August and head to the middle East to work we set about ticking off a few of the routes on both of our wish lists.

First up was a route named Sacrosanct down at the fiercely over-hanging Sanctuary Wall. Sanctuary wall is a huge wall of compact limestone perched above the sea down at Anstey's cove, Torquay. The route weaves its way under the wall before taking a handrail traverse on the first pitch and then a very steep crack line on the second pitch to reach the top of the wall. We set off and soloed to the starting belay of the 1st pitch where we splayed the ropes out and built the first belay. The first pitch was mine to lead. High above the water with questionable gear placed and the thought of swinging wildly out and unable to reverse the moves ultimately got the best of me (the duration of time I faffed around will hopefully never be known). I passed the rack to Will and within minutes he had set off and made the hand traverse look simple. Once safe at the next belay I followed Will up and cursed myself for failing mentally to lead the first pitch. The second pitch was now Wills and he set off across the hanging slab and reached the monster crackline. Once the crack had been laced he raced up and built the next belay. I followed and with much shredding of skin I finally arrived at the top. Another classic HVS in the bag.

Will hand traversing the first pitch of 'Sacrosanct'...

Next up was another classic Devon route. Black Ice. This classic 2 pitch E3 5c climbs up the middle of the huge 'boiler plate slab' down at Long Quarry Point. Since I have already climbed this route in the past with Jack I was more than happy for Will to lead both pitches and take all the glory. Black Ice is a very thin slab route and is very balancy requiring very precise foot work. A great route and just the same as last time I was very happy to nail both pitches clean (predominately a slab climber).

With the 2 routes in the bag we headed over to Daddyhole to attempt Readymix. I led off up the first pitch and built the belay and brought Will up to the stance. We had a few attempts at the second pitch but due to looking like a complete horrorshow and no evidence of the route being climbed in years we decided to leave the chossy stuff alone and instead made a quick exit and climbed Gates of Eden instead.

With 3 multi pitches at 3 different crags in the bag we decided to call it a day as we were leaving the shire early in the morning to head down to Cornwall the following day.

Climbing trips with Will are always eventful and the weekend we spent in Cornwall was no different. In fact, the less that is said about Guiness and Cornish social clubs the better.
Having said that, I thoroughly enjoyed the 2 days that we spent in Kernow as we managed to get a good amount of routes done and just generally enjoyed everyone's company. Myself, Will, Lee and Si spent the whole day on Saturday  climbing down at a deserted Sennen Cove with great sunshine and generally good conditions. Cornish granite is always a joy to climb on and the protection on the routes is generally excellent. The routes that I got ticked off where as follows:

Double Overhang VS 4c - Lead on-site.
Dexter VS 4c - Lead on-site.
Vertical Crack HS 4c Lead on-site.

Along with these routes I managed to solo a good handful of routes in the sunshine.

The next day we had some breakfast served by a very angry South African man who just seemed to generally hate life and take an almost instant dislike to myself, very random. After this we headed down to Cape Cornwall to have a quick dip to waken up before heading down to Bosigran. Myself and Will had Commando Ridge on our wishlist and it seemed fitting to get this in the bag as the last route of the weekend. We headed down to the base of the route which was completely free of waves and crashing water, almost like a mill pond. We set off and soloed the 8 pitches alternating each one as we went. A perfect route with perfect conditions on a perfect morning. Only graded as a V-diff but the exposure throughout will keep you gripped.

Will on the 1st pitch of 'Commando Ridge'...

Another eventful climbing trip to Cornwall. Thanks to Si and Lee and good luck to Will in his future move to the middle East.

Great Herdsman of Etive...

Myself watching some climbers on Rannoch Wall...

Its roughly 11am. Guidebook in one hand, map in the other and head raised looking up at the huge North-East face of Buchaille Etive Mor. Its been planned for days now that Leo and myself will ascend the face via Curved Ridge to reach the summit of Stob Dearg and bag another Munro. We set off and make our way up the steep but juggy ridge and cross below Rannoch Wall. Once we are below Rannoch Wall we take the opportunity to have a quick drink break and watch the climbers ascend the many classic climbing routes on the face.

Leo negotiating the crux of Curved  Ridge...

We set off again and negotiate a few 'bad steps' until we reach the 'crux'. The technically hardest part of the route. The crux of Curved Ridge is a graded 3 scramble in an open groove of rock. Not hard by climbing standards but more of a head climb as the exposure is surreal. We decide to rope the crux with myself leading and Leo being belayed from the top.

Once above the crux we make good progress and finally arrive at crowberry tower where we grab some lunch and scope the rest of the route which leads to the summit. Soon after lunch we ascend the remaining section behind crowberry tower and arrive at the summit. Double figures with Munro number 10 now in the bag! We have a handful of jelly babies (essential hill food) and set off and follow the ridge along to the saddle where the descent path now forks down to the right. However, why descend so soon when you can follow the rest of the ridge and summit another Munro? No option really. The ridge is followed and after scaling 2 subsidiary peaks the second Munro of Stob na Broige is reached and Munro number 11 added to the bag.

The ridge of Buchaille Etive Mor as seen from Stob na Doire...

The descent path down to the Lairig Gartain is a loose path which gradually eases before following the river Coupall all the way back to the car park.

Mapped image of today's mountain route... 

All in all another quality mountain day in the bag. A route I highly recommend.

Carn Mor Dearg and Ben Nevis Mountain day...

Its 4:57am and I'm awoken to the sound of Leon's (my Mums dog) claws brushing against the hard laminate flooring in the sitting room. I slept on the couch the night before as not too make too much noise when myself and Josh get ready to leave the house and head for Fort William the next morning. I give Josh's door a tap and tell him the kettle is boiling and remind him that we need to leave the house at 5:45 to walk to the train station in order to catch the 6:29am train from Helensburgh Upper to Fort William. After a quick shower, a cup of tea and double check of the rucksacks we left the house and headed for the train station.

An early view from the train...

By 6:30am we are sitting on board the train shoveling down cereal bars and talking about the day ahead. The West Highland line is considered to be the most scenic railway line in Britain and was voted the top railway journey in the world in 2009 and 2010. The line passes the mountains of the Arrochar Alps, along the banks of Loch Lomond, the Tyndrum and Crainlarich hills, Rannoch Moor, Corrour (highest mainline railway station in the UK) and the Glenfinnan viaduct before it arrives in Mallaig.

Josh above Lochan Meall an t Suidhe...

After 3 and a half hours the train rolls in to Fort William and myself and Josh depart and head for Achintree house to start  our days walk. It is 24 degrees plus and we start the long trudge up the mountain track at the foot of Ben Nevis. Heat, sweat and thirst we finally arrive at the fork in the path above Lochan Meall an t Suidhe. Josh, who by now is already feeling the strain, contemplates a change in decision and is tempted by the 'tourist route' which zig zags up a well constructed foot path to the summit of the Ben. After a minute or so of discussing our options Josh picks up a stone and scratches one side of it to make it appear white. 'Orange side up we do the tourist route, white side up we do the arete' Josh says. He flips the stone and all we see is a white pebble staring back at us from the palm of Josh's hand. Thank god. We avoid the dull trudge up the 'tourist route' and start contouring around the North face of Ben Nevis and arrive at the CIC hut before we grab a quick bite to eat.

Whilst at the CIC hut we fill our water bottles up, again, and take a bearing due East towards the summit of Carn Mor Dearg. It takes us over an hour to skirt our way up the steep boulder and scree strewn slope before we finally arrive at the summit and claim my 8th Munro and Josh's 1st. A hand shake and a handful of  toffee eclairs later we start to make our way along the incredible knife edge arete of Carn Mor Dearg towards the summit of Ben Nevis.

Josh arriving at the summit of Carn Mor Dearg with the North face of Ben Nevis on the right and the Carn Mor Dearg Arete on the left...

Josh making snowballs in July...

Josh leads off and we make good progress along the ridge admiring the views of all the surrounding mountains in the sunshine and excellent visibility. We finally reach the and of the ridge when we come across a large patch of snow and fill our empty water bottles up once again. After a quick re-hydration break we troop on up the boulder field and arrive at the highest point in Britain, the summit of Ben Nevis. Another handshake as I tick off my 9th Munro and Josh ticks off his 2nd. The views in all directions are incredible due to the excellent visibility.

Unfortunately our achievement is short lived as we are now racing against time in order to catch the last train from Fort William back to Helensburgh Upper! We quickly descend the 'tourist path' and wind our way down the knee jarring zig zags and rush back to Fort William. We manage to make the last train with 10 minutes to spare. The train slowly rolls out of the station at 7:50pm and we finally arrive back home at 11:40pm just as mum is dishing out some home made soup.

Mapped image of the days route...

So all in all an excellent mountain day with the wee brother and another entry for the ML logbook.