Mountain Trainin Picture

Mountain Trainin Picture

Sunday, 31 May 2015

Orkney Outdoor Learning Programme - (Week 1) 25th - 29th May 2015

For the last week I have been based on Hoy, Orkney, where I will be working for the summer (3rd year in a row!).

During this week myself, Dave and Mick have been instructing pupils from Kirkwall Grammar school who have made their annual pilgrimage to the isle of Hoy to partake in a residential programme. This week has seen the pupils participate in sessions from coasteering to gorge walking and climbing wall tower to tyrolean
Tyrolean crossing...

Climbing wall tower...
1 week down and 9 to go for myself. Lets hope the weather improves...

Wednesday, 20 May 2015

CWLA Assessment...

Today (22nd may 2015) myself, Andy, Jack and Selena participated in a CWLA assessment course run by Mark Garland of Channel Training.

Aspects of the assessment included:


Personal belaying...
  • Introduction to centre facilities.
  • Risk assessing.
  • Session planning.
  • Warming up strategies.
  • Personal climbing (at F6a) and belaying.
  • Progressive teaching of falling and best practice.
  • Running a learning to lead session with mock students (teaching clipping, lead belaying, falling, catching falls etc).
  • Practical discussions.
  • Review of test paper and discussions on various results.
  • Individual feedback.
  • Results. 

Teaching a method of clipping quickdraws...


Massive thanks to Mark for running the assessment and thanks to the 6 mock students who volunteered for the day.
Massive well done to everyone who passed.

[Photos taken by Mark Garland]

Monday, 11 May 2015

Climbing for all CPD...

This Saturday just passed (May 9th 2015) I participated in a Climbing For All CPD workshop which was run by Graeme Hill. Graeme is the team manager for the GB Para-climbing team an is an avid enthusiast for the inclusion of all individuals within sport regardless of physical and psychological ability.

Aspects of the syllabus included:

  • Appropriate and inappropriate language.
  • Hoisting systems.
  • Types of harness.
  • Sight assisted climbing.
  • Wheelchair abseiling.
Wheelchair abseiling...


Sight assisted climbing...

An informative course and highly recommended for coaches working with individuals/groups with additional needs.

Until next time...

Saturday, 9 May 2015

Morocco - April/May 2015...

On the evening of Tuesday the 28th April 2015 a group of ten of us touched down in Marrakech airport, Morocco. We were met there by one of our Moroccan fixers who organised our transport to the village of Imlil. Once here we swapped vehicles and all piled in to a death-trapesque minibus which had only three conventional seats. Following a ten minute journey up terrifying mountain tracks we finally arrived at our hostel for the night in the higher region of the village. We were treated to some tasty Moroccan soup and bread and lamb tajine before winding down for the night.

Myself on the trek to the Toubkal Refuge...
Day 1 - Imlil to Toubkal Refuge (1,740 - 3,200 metres): 

We woke early in the morning and were greeted with bread, jam and some morning tea to set us up for the long trek ahead of us for the day. Once finished we helped the muleteers load the mules with our rucksacks and equipment before they disappeared up the valley out of sight.
The trek between Imlil village and the Toubkal refuge is a very gradual trek with a distance of roughly 10 kilometres and a height gain of 1,460 metres. The group done the trek in roughly 5 hours, allowing a gradual increase to a higher altitude.
Once we had all arrived we were treated to copious amounts of food for both lunch and dinner before resting for the next days walk.
Refuge altitude...

Day 2 - Toubkal Refuge to Mountain Pass High-point (3,200 - 3,680 metres):


Ben nearing the col high-point of 3,680 metres...
On the 2nd morning we planned to have an easy day. This allowed for the whole group to acclimatise slowly and for some members of the group to get a feel for wearing crampons and using an ice axe. It was agreed that we would head for the high-point of 3,680 on one of the many mountain ridges in the area. Myself and Ben, feeling comfortable, made quick progress  and reached the col where we waited for the rest of the group to arrive. Enjoying the view and taking the obligatory tourist photos we headed back to the refuge before the snow had a chance to soften in the early afternoon sunshine. Once back at the refuge we made the decision to rest and to ascend Jbel Toubkal the following day.

Day 3 - Toubkal Refuge to Jbel Toubkal Summit (3,200 - 4,167 metres):

Ben, Lou and myself on the summit of Jbel Toubkal...

We woke just before 5am, had breakfast and were ready to leave the refuge at roughly 5:30am. We left as a group of 10 and progressed up the normal route of ascent as the morning light extinguished the need for our head torches. By the time we had reached the bottom of the broad ridge leading to the summit we had separated in to 3 distinct groups. Myself, Ben and Lou led off and reached the narrow ridge which leads up to the summit. Weaving our way between the ridge the 3 of us reached the summit of Jbel Toubkal, 4,167 metres  at 9:20am. Here, we took more obligatory  photos whilst we waited for the rest of the group to arrive. At roughly 10:15am the whole party was on the summit for the group photo. Once completed, myself and Ben descended quickly down the ridge in an attempt to beat the sun which would soon be turning the snow underfoot in to wet slush. We arrived back at the refuge after a successful ascent and descent at 11:48am. Our first peak over 4,000 metres in the bag we relaxed in the midday sun before tucking in to more Moroccan cuisine.

Day 4 - Toubkal Refuge (3,200 metres) to Ras n-Ouanoukrim (4,088 metres) and Timesguida n-Ouanoukrim (4,083 metres) Summits:
The 'nutcracker stone'...

Having arrived back at the refuge early the previous day we had adequate enough rest to have another early morning and another mountain day. This time, myself, Ben, Lou, Ben and Jon had breakfast at 5:30am and left the refuge at 5:50am. The objective was to reach the summits of both Ras n-Ouanoukrim and Timesguida n-Ouanoukrim. The 2nd and 3rd highest peaks in Morocco. Ben led off and we made quick progress arriving at the high col at 7:30am. Ahead of the estimated guidebook time. We headed up past the 'nutcracker stone' and reached the East Ridge which we scrambled to reach the summit of  Ras n-Ouanoukrim, 4,088 metres at 9am. After a few brief minutes enjoying the view from the summit we descended to the bealach and started heading up towards the summit of Timesguida n-Ouanoukrim. We made quick progress up the easy angled ascent and arrived on the summit of Timesguida n-Ouanoukrim, 4,083 metres at 9:39am. We had a quick look at the queues amassing on the ascent of Jbel Toubkal through the binoculars and decided to descend. We made quick progress on the descent and arrived back at the refuge at 11:57am. Another successful day and for myself, Ben and Lou another 2 peaks over 4,000 metres in the bag.

View of Jbel Toubkal from Ras n-Ouanoukrim...

Day 5 - Toubkal Refuge (3,200 metres) to Aguelzim (3,650 metres) summit and Azib Tamsoult (2,250 metres) Refuge:
Myself  under one of the waterfalls...

On this day we planned to ascend Aguelzim (3,650 metres) and then trek to the Azib Tamsoult refuge. We had a late start this day having breakfast at 7:30am and leaving the Toubkal refuge at 9am. We left the bulk of our equipment with the mules and set off along the track which makes a gradual ascent just below the Aguelzim ridge before arriving at a high mountain pass. From here, a handful of us headed further along the ridge and reached the summit of Aguelzim (3,650 metres) at 11:30am before returning to the rest of the party. Now altogether we made the long trek down the valley through some stunning terrain and passing several waterfalls before arriving at the Azib Tamsoult refuge at 15:20pm. Here we were treated to fresh salad, omelettes and Moroccan mint tea . Having eaten copious amounts of food and packed our bags we had some rest for the following day.


Day 6 - Azib Tamsoult Refuge (2,250 metres) to Imlil Village (1,740 metres):
View looking back to the Azib Tamsoult refuge on
the trek to Imlil

As planned, this was to be our last walking day of the trip. We had breakfast at 8am, left our equipment with the mules and left the refuge at roughly 9:50am. We trekked through more stunning terrain and finally reached the village of Imlil after roughly 5 hours of trekking. Here, we enjoyed some lamb tajine and mint tea before we were driven to Marrakech where we would spend the night before travelling back to the UK.






All in all a very successful trip for the whole group. Special thanks must go to the 2nd year degree group who allowed us to participate in their expedition. Thanks also go to Ben and Jon.


Group shot outside the Toubkal Refuge...

Until next time...

Monday, 27 April 2015

Equalising anchors with slings...

Using slings to create a belay on both single and multi-pitch crags has various advantages.

Firstly; Less rope is used which potentially allows longer pitches to be climbed by the leader.

Secondly; It can create a single attachment point at the belay reducing clutter and tidying the stance.

Thirdly; Slings are relatively light-weight and extremely strong. Many rated at 22 kN.

There are several methods of using slings to equalise anchors at a belay. 4 methods are described below.

This first image shows two anchors equalised with a length of 120cm sling with a figure of eight.

The sling is clipped through both carabiners, pulled down to create a V and the the figure of eight tied.

Advantages: Quick, simple and effective.

Disadvantages: Requires a 120cm or larger length of sling, particularly when anchors are not close together.

This second image shows each anchor tied off with a clove hitch and then equalised with a figure of eight. Again, a 120cm length of sling has been used.

The sling is clove hitched to one carabiner, a loop of slack created and then clove hitched to the other anchor. Once both clove hitches have been tied the sling is equalised with a figure of eight.

Advantages: Quick, uses less sling and is easy to adjust.

Disadvantages: Must be proficient with each knot, harder to create with less than a 120cm length of sling



This third image shows three anchors equalised with a figure of eight using a 240cm length of sling.

The sling is clipped through each anchor, pulled down to create a W and then equalised with a figure of eight.

Advantages: Allows more anchors to be incorporated in to the belay, quick and effective.

Disadvantages: Requires more equipment and a large length of sling.








This fourth image shows two anchors equalised with an over hand knot using a 120cm length of sling.

Tie an overhand knot in the sling, attach a loop either side of the knot through each individual anchor and then have the overhand knot rest in the balance point. Ensure that the carabiner is clipped through both halves of the sling.

Advantages: Effective and tidy.

Disadvantages: Tricky to tie.



Points to remember when using slings to create a belay at a stance:

  • Ensure that each anchor is independently tied off.
  • Ensure that each anchor is equally loaded.
  • Slings must remain under a static load and must never be shock loaded.
  • You can shorten large slings but cannot lengthen short slings.
  • As slings do not absorb as much energy as dynamic rope the anchors will be put under greater pressure. Choose your anchors carefully.
  • Try to ensure that the angles between anchors are 60 degrees or less. This will ensure less force is placed on each anchor and the direction of load is correct. 

Friday, 24 April 2015

Bonehill and Hound Tor...

Managed to get out on the moors for a spot of bouldering with the family yesterday (23rd April 2015) and managed to tick off some classic problems that have been on my eye for a while.

Whilst at Bonehill I sent Rippled Wall V4 6b. One that has been on my list for a while.

After letting Joshua scramble up a few boulders and do some weaseling we crossed the road and headed towards Hound Tor. Whilst there I flashed 5c Wall and got Cosmetix V5 f6c on my 3rd go.

On Rippled Wall V4 6b with Joshua behind...



Friday, 10 April 2015

High Sports Plymouth - Setting

Had a good time helping re-set an area of the bouldering room yesterday with the setting crew. 22 new problems in total!