Head climbing at Sanctuary Wall...

Well the sun was out again today and me and Jack decided it would be rude not to go climbing. We decided to hit one of the hardcore crags of Torbay and attempt a line that we have both had on our wish list. The crag was Sanctuary Wall, a massive overhanging cliff above the sea with the only realistic chance of escape being the dreaded drop to the sea far below. The route was Incubus, a HVS and possibly the most traveled route on the crag due to the grade and ease of start.

The belay to protect the leader on the 1st pitch.

The 1st pitch was led by Jack. A very technical sequence on side pulls gains a ramp and easier climbing leads to the belay ledge. After stripping my belay I nervously followed Jack and we met at the belay ledge. I got to finally see my 2nd pitch as its impossible to see from the base of the crag, unless however you are in a boat below the fiercely overhanging wall. I said to Jack that my head wasn't in the right place today and so he reluctantly gave in to my asking of following him on the 2nd pitch also.

Jack on the technical 1st pitch, note the steepness!!

So Jack set off on the 2nd pitch, a tricky layback which soon eases off and the holds become more positive before reaching a wire and peg belay at the top. The communication was poor and Jack had to phone me from the top to tell me that he was safe and that I could take him off belay. I quickly undone the belay and started climbing. I got to the tricky layback move and overcame this by some super funky bridging before reaching the jugs and pulling positively to the top. A quick handshake and I told Jack that I owed him one.

 It just goes to show that a big proportion of lead climbing is all in the head, a mental thing. I easily made every move on the climb but was terrified at the thought of falling off and hanging in space above the sea. I'll be back to lead the beast that is Incubus.

Cheers once again Jack and the next pint is on me!