Old Man of Hoy...

At 5:30am I was awoken by my annoying iphone ringtone! The day was finally here. The day me and Nige had planned to climb the Old Man of Hoy. I jumped out of bed and looked out the window hoping to see some dry ground. Bone dry, perfect...

We quickly dispatched of tea, cereal bars and brioche rolls before leaving the Hoy hostel and driving down to Rackwick to begin the walk to the Old Man.

We set off from Rackwick and within an hour and a half we were at the base of the Old Man snacking away and sorting our gear out. From below, the stack seems much higher and wider than it does from the top of the cliff. An amazing view which only a climber has the pleasure of enjoying...

Old Man of Hoy from the base...

Once we had fueled up I set off up the 1st pitch and quickly reached the 'Gallery' and then belayed Nige up on second. The 1st pitch is a nice gentle jug fest which feels about v-diff.

Nige seconding the 1st pitch...

Once we were both on the gallery we sorted out the ropes and gear and immediately started the 2nd pitch, the crux. I set off down the bad step and was confronted with the 1st overhang. Clipping the old peg and placing a small cam I swung out and over the overhang and climbed in the deep square cut chimney. A good rest here before bridging up on smears and good hand holds before a final palming move to gain the final crack of the pitch. Rather than resting here I just pushed on and followed the crack to the niche belay where I let out a celebratory roar!

Myself below the 1st overhang on the crux pitch...

Once I had sorted out the ropes I started to belay Nige. It wasn't long before he had passed the overhangs and the chimney before scaling the final crack and reaching the niche belay. Looking rather relieved to have finished the pitch.

Myself on the top of the Old Man of Hoy...

We quickly exchanged the gear and I quickly climbed the next few pitches. The pitches were a series of connecting ledges which were rather green and full of fulmars happy to cover your clothes in oily vomit. The climbing here isn't great but more than makes up for this in adventure! 

Once we had finished the connecting ledge pitches we arrived at the base of the final corner pitch. An amazing looking pitch which would be a classic climb in its own right on any outcrop crag!

I quickly climbed the pitch feeling completely comfortable. Feeling more like an indoor climbing wall as every hold felt like a jug. Brilliant. I topped out and let out a victory cheer to the amusement of the spectators on the main cliff who had been constantly watching our progress. I then belayed Nige up and we were then applauded by the spectators. 

Nigel on the top of the Old Man of Hoy...

The 1st abseil from the Old Man...

Once at the top we searched in vain to find the summit logbook so I decided to leave my diary behind as a replacement. Ripping out the unnecessary pages we proudly entered our log on the 1st page and stashed the book under the summit rocks.

Once we had enjoyed being at the top we then began the long descent back to the base. After 3 abseils, vomiting fulmars, snagged ropes and a long walk we finally reached the hostel in one piece!

Once we got the customary photos beside the iconic sign outside of the Rackwick hostel we finally headed back through the glen towards the Hoy hostel to retrieve our kit and head for the ferry.

Once back on the 'Mainland' we were picked up by Dave who drove us back to Niges house where we had a well deserved celebratory beer...

After being on my wishlist for over a year I was proud to have finally climbed this iconic sea stack. One of the most, if not the most iconic climb in the British Isles. A true adventure and a good tick for the logbook.

Until next time...