Norway - February 2015

Team ready to board flight to Oslo...

I recently returned from a  successful ice climbing trip to Rjukan, Norway just over 2 weeks ago (17th February 2015) and thought I would share an account of how the trip went...

On the 11th of February myself and good friends Andy, Jack and Nick flew from London Stansted (after a brutal overnight bivvy in the airport) to Oslo where we then traveled to Rjukan where we would base ourselves for the coming week.

Whilst in Rjukan we stayed at the Rjukan Old School Hostel, A very friendly and well equipped hostel filled with similarly minded climbing bums. Essential when on a climbing eXped. The accommodation is renowned within climbing circles as the place to be in Rjukan and is a well established Black Diamond test centre.

The climbing:

12th February - Day 1. On our first morning in Rjukan we decided to head to Ozzimosis. Ozzimosis is an easily accessible 'ice crag' close to the hostel and is an ideal location for anyone venturing out on ice for the first time. Whilst here we got our first taste of pure ice climbing and managed to bag several leads each. Including grade 4 water ice.

Climbs completed at Ozzimosis:

Minidisken WI2
Julevask WI2
Juledusj WI3
Ozzimosis WI4

Team descending from Fabrikfossen WI3...

13th February - Day 2. After our successful day at Ozzimosis we were all feeling more confident and decided to do one of the longer multi pitch routes in Rjukan Centre. The route we chose to do was the 3 star classic route Fabrikfossen WI3. After the 30 minute walk in my self and Andy partnered up and Jack and Nick partnered up and set off. Both teams completing the climb in 6 pitches before the long abseil descent back to the car. A classic waterfall in the bag and all 4 of us surviving Friday the 13th...

Myself looking down the 2nd chimney pitch of Bakveiein WI4...

14th February - Day 3. After being recommended by no less than 3 others we decided to head to Rjukan Upper Gorge to attempt the 3 star classic multi pitch route Bakveiein WI4. From the topo in the guidebook the climb does not even look slightly appealing (personal opinion). The 2nd pitch is hidden in the picture and the 3rd pitch looks extremely slabby. How wrong could I be... Myself and Andy arrived and the bottom of the route and had to stand around for an hour whilst the team ahead of us systematically quarried the ice down the whole route. Due to the nature of the climb any ice dislodged by the leader flies down to the base of the route through the 2nd chimney pitch. Which didn't help was the fact that the team ahead didn't shout down to us whenever they dislodged any ice. Once they were done Andy headed up the 1st pitch and belayed below the chimney pitch. Arriving at the belay I finally wondered what all the fuss was about. The climbing on the chimney pitch was one of the best pitches of climbing I have done anywhere. Truly brilliant. Whilst Andy led on up the 3rd pitch Jack and Nick were slowly catching up with us on the route. I quickly followed Andy up and topped out beside the Industrial Workers Museum where I was met by 2 fresh faced armed guards. Bizarre. Once Andy was up we checked out the museum and headed back to the car park where we waited on the others.

Once we arrived back at the hostel we cracked open a few beers and relaxed in the sauna. Suppose I've had worse valentines days...

Myself on Gaustapokelse WI4 at Krokan...

15th February - Day 4. On our 4th morning we decided that we would climb in the huge amphitheater that is Mael which was recommended to us by the Danes who were staying in the hostel. However after a long and tiring walk in we managed to get completely lost and some bad words were thrown around... Long walk back out and we decided to have a coffee back at the hostel and head to another 'ice crag' called Krokan. Krokan is one of the highest crags in Rjukan and the conditions here are generally stable over the winter season. A lovely little place complete with blue ice, deep snow and hanging icicles. All that's missing is the reindeer. A true winter wonderland! Although we did have to dodge the French punters who were hanging on top ropes attached to tiny sized mailions hacking away at the suspended icicles we managed to get some decent routes done.

Climbs completed at Krokan:

Jomfrau WI4
Bullen WI3
Gaustapokelse WI4

Andy on the 3rd pitch of Tjonnstadbergfossen WI4...

16th February - Day 5. On our last climbing day we decided to head back to Rjukan centre where Sam (Hostel guide) had recommended another classic 3 starred multi pitch route. The route was Tjonnstadbergfossen WI4. For this route we stayed with our regular partners and both set off at the same time. Much of the ice on the route was very frosted and ice screw placements were hard to come by. On the 2nd pitch I placed 4 screws within 50 metres of climbing! The overall route was excellent and we had a brilliant view down to the town square in Rjukan. A great climb to end the trip on...

However as we had finished in good time we headed back to the hostel, had a coffee break and decided to go back to Krokan to do some night climbing. A brilliant shared idea and a brilliant experience to climb ice in the dark with head torches whilst the snow is falling. Brilliant.

Night climbing at Krokan...

Routes completed at Krokan at night: 

Bullen WI3
Unknown (RF 4) WI2
Unknown (RF 4.5) WI3

All in all a very successful, and surprisingly cheap, ice climbing expedition to Norway.

An amazing country, great hospitality, fantastic company, brilliant ice climbing, lovely scenery, deep history... The list goes on and I'm sure that we will be returning in the future...



Thanks to Jakob and Sam for the hospitality and thanks to Andy, Jack and Nick for the great memories!

Until next time...