Well the day finally came and me, Will and Jack met up prior to our North Wales climbing eXpedition in order to get a days multi pitch climbing done. We discussed at the beginning of the week that the Dewerstone was probably the best area of South Devon to go for the climbing that we were all looking for and so the decision was set. An early morning drive down the A38 had us in the car park by 9am, considered an Alpine start by some of the more lazy inclined individuals. A quick stroll up the approach path had us at the base of the crag within 10 minutes.
The 1st route of the day was chosen by Jack and not surprisingly the route of choice was
Central Groove. A magnificent corner on the left side of the main crag and one of the best HS' in South Devon. Jack led up the 1st pitch comfortably and established a hanging belay on the belay block, Jack does have an obsession with hanging belays! Whilst hanging Jack belayed me up followed by Will and a quick changeover of gear ensued before Will took off and led the 2nd layback pitch before bringing me and then Jack up on belay. There is something cool about climbing as a trio, I enjoy the company at the belay rather than shivering away alone on a cold day!
Me on the 1st pitch of Central Groove
Belay at the top of pitch 1 of Central Groove
Me and Jack on the block belay of Central Groove
Jack on the 2nd pitch of Central Groove
After some discussion at the bottom of the crag we all decided on the next route,
Climbers Club Direct. '
'One for the jamming master'' as described in the © ROCKFAX guidebook. As me and Will hesitantly took a step back from leading the 1st pitch Jack was brave enough to stand up to the challenge at hand. After a gnarly jamming session Jack managed to overcome the crux with only 2 falls before using an in-situ tree and climbing the roof above to gain the belay stance. Once established at the stance Jack belayed Will and then me up stopping only to hold both me and Will at the same move that he had himself fallen on, nothing worse than blowing the on-sight!! Another change over of gear at the belay saw me taking my 1st lead of the day and heading up the 2nd pitch. A huge groove big enough to body jam and then a juggy roof saw me progress up the route quickly before getting stopped in my track at the last few desperate moves of the climb, and I do mean desperate! Whilst here I placed a bit of gear before a karabiner wildly swung from my harness and chipped my front tooth, a mouth full of gritty enamel, nice! After 10 minutes I finally ''manned up'' and began jamming my way to the top, however I did suffer from a severe case of sphincter twitching and sweaty palms before I finally reached the top. I quickly belayed Will up followed by Jack who both agreed than Climbers Club Direct was full value for a HVS 5a.
Jack setting off on the 1st pitch of Climbers Club Direct
Will reaching the belay on the 1st pitch of Climbers Club Direct
The last route of the day was chosen by Will and after telling him how cool a route it was he chose to lead
Leviathan. Will must of been in a hurry as he made probably the fastest ascent to date of the route climbing it in less than 5 minutes, a feat than Dan Osman would have been proud of him self. He quickly set-up a belay and belayed me then Jack all in the space of 15 minutes. I know know that Will rushed as he had left his lunch in the car and was running on an empty stomach!
Will speeding up Leviathan
Not a bad days outing in preparation for our Wales climbing eXpedition due to take place the 1st week of April, super psyched and cant wait to get back!
All photos curtosy of Will Cattell.
