Mountain Trainin Picture

Mountain Trainin Picture

Monday, 27 April 2015

Equalising anchors with slings...

Using slings to create a belay on both single and multi-pitch crags has various advantages.

Firstly; Less rope is used which potentially allows longer pitches to be climbed by the leader.

Secondly; It can create a single attachment point at the belay reducing clutter and tidying the stance.

Thirdly; Slings are relatively light-weight and extremely strong. Many rated at 22 kN.

There are several methods of using slings to equalise anchors at a belay. 4 methods are described below.

This first image shows two anchors equalised with a length of 120cm sling with a figure of eight.

The sling is clipped through both carabiners, pulled down to create a V and the the figure of eight tied.

Advantages: Quick, simple and effective.

Disadvantages: Requires a 120cm or larger length of sling, particularly when anchors are not close together.

This second image shows each anchor tied off with a clove hitch and then equalised with a figure of eight. Again, a 120cm length of sling has been used.

The sling is clove hitched to one carabiner, a loop of slack created and then clove hitched to the other anchor. Once both clove hitches have been tied the sling is equalised with a figure of eight.

Advantages: Quick, uses less sling and is easy to adjust.

Disadvantages: Must be proficient with each knot, harder to create with less than a 120cm length of sling

This third image shows three anchors equalised with a figure of eight using a 240cm length of sling.

The sling is clipped through each anchor, pulled down to create a W and then equalised with a figure of eight.

Advantages: Allows more anchors to be incorporated in to the belay, quick and effective.

Disadvantages: Requires more equipment and a large length of sling.

This fourth image shows two anchors equalised with an over hand knot using a 120cm length of sling.

Tie an overhand knot in the sling, attach a loop either side of the knot through each individual anchor and then have the overhand knot rest in the balance point. Ensure that the carabiner is clipped through both halves of the sling.

Advantages: Effective and tidy.

Disadvantages: Tricky to tie.

Points to remember when using slings to create a belay at a stance:

  • Ensure that each anchor is independently tied off.
  • Ensure that each anchor is equally loaded.
  • Slings must remain under a static load and must never be shock loaded.
  • You can shorten large slings but cannot lengthen short slings.
  • As slings do not absorb as much energy as dynamic rope the anchors will be put under greater pressure. Choose your anchors carefully.
  • Try to ensure that the angles between anchors are 60 degrees or less. This will ensure less force is placed on each anchor and the direction of load is correct. 

Friday, 24 April 2015

Bonehill and Hound Tor...

Managed to get out on the moors for a spot of bouldering with the family yesterday (23rd April 2015) and managed to tick off some classic problems that have been on my eye for a while.

Whilst at Bonehill I sent Rippled Wall V4 6b. One that has been on my list for a while.

After letting Joshua scramble up a few boulders and do some weaseling we crossed the road and headed towards Hound Tor. Whilst there I flashed 5c Wall and got Cosmetix V5 f6c on my 3rd go.

On Rippled Wall V4 6b with Joshua behind...

Friday, 10 April 2015

High Sports Plymouth - Setting

Had a good time helping re-set an area of the bouldering room yesterday with the setting crew. 22 new problems in total!